I’ve wanted to sew trousers for a while now. I bought denim a few months ago and was waiting for the right time (reunited with my machine!) before I got cracking on the Ginger Jeans pattern. In the mean time Deer and Doe released a new pattern; Safran Jeans (I hate the word pants, I will never use it). A while back I wrote about wanting to try more of their patterns because of a good experience so I was intrigued. Because I’ve always had difficulty in finding the right fabric for trousers I told myself I could only buy the pattern if I found the fabric first. The sewing gods were with me and I found 2m on perfect fabric on sale.
The patterns strongly recommends 20-30% stretch and this fabric certainly has it. I decided to make view A, a more traditional jean style with welt pockets. Due to my recent disasters with sizing I decided to play it very safe and make up the size 40. I ended up taking in the sides massively and crotch seam also. That said, going forward I wouldn’t change this because of the differing stretch other fabric may have
I’d never sewn trousers before and this was easily one of the more challenging projects I’d taken on. I have to say that I am so impressed with the Deer and Doe instructions: the diagrams are detailed and the instructions are clear without being superfluous. Someone who’s never sewn trousers before can make these, I did. I did struggle slightly with the welt pocket but after staring at the diagram long enough I managed. The instructions also dedicate two pages with diagrams to common trouser fit issues, what they look like and how to fix them, this is something I absolutely will be referring to in the future.
Despite sewing my fly to the back of my trouser three times (!) my first fly zip went in relatively smoothly (although I did try to attach it backwards at first), again I give credit to Deer and Doe’s instructions. I basted the waistband at first and spent some time fiddling around with getting it even, for some reason I struggled with this. Then I gave up a reasoned that it *must* have been designed that way.
Fit wise I’m impressed with Deer and Doe’s drafting. Despite not having a yoke at the back the jeans don’t gape. This may be because they’re so high-waisted but this is a big thing for me. Jeans always gape at the back on me, these don’t. . They are a little short however. I do tend to wear jeans a little long anyway but these are still a little to short for me which I find odd. I’m 5’5, admittedly my legs are long given my height, but still!
All that said these jeans after two wears are way to big for me; the fabric stretched out very quickly. This is largely to do with the fabric, it was cheap and has SO much stretch. When I make my next pair (I already have the fabric!) I’ll use a fabric with less stretch so hopefully this particular problem won’t arise.
overall I really recommend this pattern, this is the first time I’ve ever jumped on the bandwagon of a new pattern and honestly it feels fitting as this pattern is excellent. Unfortunately my sewing doesn’t show off this pattern to the best of its abilities nor does the fabric. But I’ve plans to work on that in the future. In a sense these jeans are perfect, the fabric was cheap and I imagine it will fall apart in the near future, just in time for me to have made a better pair!
Notes for the future:
- The fabric was too light, the jeans zip I used felt like over kill and the fabric was so stretchy that I probably didn’t even need a zip. Key point here is pick better fabric!
- Topstitching in a lighter colour is nice but difficult
- What is going on with the welts? Should I have topstitched closer to the edge next time?
- I should finish off the edges of the fly bit on the trouser fronts