Pattern Review · Uncategorized

Safran Jeans Take Two!

So this is another pair of Safran jeans, I’m honestly so proud of the improvement between the first and second pair I made.  This is a reason I love sewing, I love tangible evidence of my improvements.

Jeans front.jpg
You can see that the zip isn’t completely straight here

The fabric had less stretch than the previous pair (this is good, the original pair were too big because the fabric couldn’t recover due to too much stretch) so I had less alterations to do. I did have to take about an inch out of the waist, so I think I’ll retrace the pattern for a smaller size. The fly cover bit ( very technical name) is a bit smaller than I’d like, so I’ll make it wider in the future. Those are the only really changes I’d make.

Jean side.jpg
This is me attempting to show off the welt pocket…clearly my modeling skills need work!

There is some odd bunching around the crotch when I sit down, does anybody know what this is? I don’t own any RTW high waisted jeans to compare to.  I’ve done some research but I don’t know what to fix as it all the guides talk about bunching while standing! The only thing that I think might help is a flat pubis adjustment…but I don’t know. All advice is welcome!

Jean back.jpg
It’s only looking at this photo that I realise that there are creases at the back, around the knee is normal for me but further up clearly needs some adjustments.

The fly on these jeans isn’t straight, it tends to tilt, I think this is because I stretched the waistband slight when stitching on one side, so I won’t make this mistake again!

jean side two.jpg

I used a navy thread to topstitch, I’m not super confident in my topstitching so this means that mistakes won’t be seen! I followed the method outlined by Deer and Doe completely with no changes on my part. The second time round was much easier but again, a lot of credit goes to Deer and Doe: the drafting is great and the instructions are clear. These aren’t designed for a complete beginner but D&D make that clear. One thing of note: D&D specify 20-25% of stretch in the fabric, this is easy to work out when buying fabric and is a reason I chose this pattern over the Ginger Jeans which only says 2% Lycra. To me, 2% Lycra is vague and, since not everything is labeled in shops, elusive. This was the deciding factor is choosing Safran over Ginger and I’ve no regrets.

I’ve more fabric to make another version of this pattern. I really see it playing an important role in my wardrobe, and overall I’m really pleased with this make! It’s funny, I used to think that sewing meant I didn’t quite follow fashion trends in the same way. But I realized looking around college ALL the women were wearing high waisted black jeans! I’m clearly more fashionable than I thought!

 

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10 thoughts on “Safran Jeans Take Two!

  1. They look awesome and the fit looks pretty close! I have a newbie question. Do you have any trouble sewing denim on your regular sewing machine? I added some darts to my RTW stretch denim jeans recently. I did a lot of hand cranking over the waistband and thick parts.

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  2. These look really nice, especially considering it’s only your second pair! Great job! If I were you, I wouldn’t worry much about the extra fabric creases on the back thighs–based on your photo, it looks like wearing ease. This is quite normal for such tight-fitting jeans, trust me. If you remove all of that, you won’t be able to sit or bend or move around comfortably unless your denim is realllllllly stretchy (like jeggings). Feel free to try to minimize some of it if it really bothers you, but you needn’t worry that it is an indicator of poor fit. 🙂

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  3. I think the front poufing might happen because there is more fabric – crotch to waistband in high waisted jeans than a lower waist. But as I’m sitting in a park staring st my own crotchal region I note that even my RTW low waisted jeans would pouf out if it weren’t for them being relatively snug circumferentially, if that makes sense. I think your idea to wash and dry then reassess before making amendments to the next pair is s great idea. You could always take them in along the side seam with a temporary long machine stitch and see if that effects the issue? Yay for scientific research eh? Excellent jeans nonetheless, well executed and they really make the most of your youthful curves!!

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