Pattern Review · Sewing · Uncategorized

A Black Bias Camisole

It shocks me a little that I’ve no really self-made camisole/slip top considering how often I wear them. In taking stock of my wardrobe and my sewing list this was a real gap. I did some googling for a decent pattern but a lot of them seemed a little overpriced for something relatively simple, like some don’t even have darts! I need my bust darts! So I decided to use a pattern I already had, and if I really wasn’t pleased then I would buy a pattern.

My pattern it’s from a book I bought to teach me how to sew lingerie. Unfortunately none of the bra patterns are useful to anyone greater than a B cup (ie NOT me!). That said it does have a wonderful section on techniques used in lingerie.

Cami front.jpg
Apologies for the glowing model but there is no light, also for the creases!

Last time I attempted this I noticed that the bust was very off, so I decided to do my first ever FBA. It was thankfully really simple, like really easy. Credit goes to the curvy sewing collective for this tutorial. So I added about 2 inches in total, which in hindsight may have been a bit much!

Bias Back.jpg

Sewing the pattern was really quick, there are two darts and two side seams. The pattern suggest a very fiddly shell thing for the font, but I decided to use bias tape. In making my failed Dove top I discovered that the haberdashery near to me sells lovely soft cotton bias tape. So I decided to use that. I used the bias tape as a facing and as straps. It’s so useful having a model getting the placement of the back straps was easier than on the flat.

I didn’t finish this, it’s  unhemed and I haven’t stitched the back straps in place. It’s just not what I want, the bias tape is a bit too stiff and it’s honestly just missing the ‘thing’.  What I want is essentially copies of a cheap RTW cami that I have. I’m now really considering taking it apart or at least tracing around it. Does anybody have any advice on how to do that with darts without taking it apart?

This isn’t a great loss as the fabric is left over from another Méilot shirt and was super cheap. This is something I want to get right as this kind of tops are what I wear 60% of the time and would wear 99% of the time if I had more! Anyway

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2 thoughts on “A Black Bias Camisole

  1. Ive been trying cami tops too, I didn’t have a pattern but liked the Ogden Cami but decided to find some free patterns, my first 2 attempts have been with the Sewloft Diane Cami, no dart though (I’m going to need one!) the first was massive to fit my bust size, the second I took in the sides from the bust down and it fits ok but needs work, I made a facing for both. I’m going to try the Pauline Alice free Bailen too which does have darts.

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    1. Oh good thinking. Yeah despite the reviews the Ogden cami’s lack of darts doesn’t appeal to me. I’ve actually been eyeing up Salme’s came, it has darts and a long facing like something on have on RTW, I think that may be my next hit!
      Best of luck!

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